WHERE WE WENT IN 2008
Little Cayman Beach Resort, Caribbean -- In March we spent a week scuba diving at this resort - which has some of the best dive sites in the Caribbean. We did three dives a day, spent some time in the hot tub to recuperate, and ate ourselves to death on the excellent food (including gourmet desserts!). Not much to do there but eat, dive, and sleep - which we did do in abundance. Saw lots of critters and beautiful coral, walls, etc. A great, relaxing trip.
Juneau, Alaska -- In June we spent a week on a small cruise ship (holds 36 passengers and a crew of 16 - only 25 guests when we went). The company was American Safari Cruises and our ship was the biggest in the fleet - the Safari Explorer, which will spend the winter in Hawaii.
We did some zip lining in a rain forest the day before we sailed and rode bikes to Mendenhall Glacier the day we returned. Our ship was very luxurious and the food was incredible. Three gourmet meals a day (the final dinner was all you could eat of filet mignon, king crab legs, and bananas foster for dessert). We took trips every day in either kayaks or skiffs to see animals, glaciers, waterfalls, rainforests, etc. On two occasions we watched humpback whales doing bubble-netting where they dive as a pod, form a circle under water and blow bubbles which confuse the fish. Then they rise to the surface as a group with their mouths open as they break the surface. It is fascinating to watch. We had a hydrophone trailing in the water and could listen to them communicate as they formed the group. Then a long, insistent "song" from the leader which got louder as they got closer to the surface. We could even hear the bubbles they were creating as they got close.
Also saw several bald eagles catch fish right near the boat and mountain goats high on the cliffs. Not many bears, but everything else, including small islands of sea lions. Went to Glacier Bay and saw gorgeous glaciers which we kayaked up to and saw harbor seals with pups in another location. The prettiest glacier (and day) was at the end with Dawes Glacier. Went past hundreds of seals and pups on the way in and got to kayak right up to the glacier, which was very active and calved five times while we were there (only one big one). We really hated to leave as we had bonded with the crew and were very sad to go.
WHERE WE WENT IN 2007
MANCHESTER, ENGLAND -- In October we attended the SATW Convention in Manchester, England. First, however, we had a Board meeting in the Lake Country, staying at a delightful hotel in Ambleside. There we visited the homes of Beatrix Potter (of Peter Rabbit fame) and William Wordsworth. Dale even got to sit in one of Wordsworth's favorite chairs where he did some of his writing. We were across from Lake Windemere and surrounded by mountains and sheep (our favorite being the Herdwick, a favorite of Potter, and found only in this region). Side trips to Muncaster Castle and the Wasdale Valley, Wastwater (England's deepest lake and officially "UK's favorite view") and a short trip on a steam-hauled train to Dalegarth were highlights, as was a cruise on Lake Windemere. It is a beautiful, peaceful area -- and you can understand how it was the inspiration of the Romantic poets.
The core convention was held in Manchester, a booming industrial city that was fun to explore. Got our share of fish and chips here before heading on to our golfpost trip.
We got to play four of the best courses in England -- Royal Liverpool, Southport & Ainsdale, Royal Lytham & St. Annes, and Windemere. Our favorite was Southport & Ainsdale, a visual feast. Most memorable were the 202 bunkers on Royal Lytham & St. Annes. Except for Windmere (a beautiful short course back in the Lake Country with gorgeous mountain views and steep up and down fairways -- but no bunkers) all the courses were links in style, with the traditional gorse, heather, deep sod bunkers, and wind. Fortunately, we missed both the wind and rain during our stay. They also had wonderful old clubhouses steeped in tradition. We were lucky to have the club secretaries show us around and give us the history of each club. We really look forward to a return to play some of the other standout courses in that area, particularly Royal Birkdale, site of next years British Open.
NEMACOLIN WOODLANDS RESORT, PENNSYLVANIA -- In June
BEDFORD SPRINGS RESORT, PENNSYLVANIA -- In June
LEXINGTON, KY -- in April for the Rolex-Kentucky Three-Day Event, an international equestrian competition.
DOMINICAN REPUBLIC -- In January, we visited one of our favorite Caribbean resorts, Casa de Campo, to play Teeth of the Dog and Dye Fore, two of the resort's four fine courses by Pete and Alice Dye. We also discovered some great new golf resorts in this rapidly growing tourist destination. Cap Cana has a superb Jack Nicklaus golf course, the first of three. Punta Cana Resort and Club is building a new course by Tom Fazio and another P.B. Dye design is in the works. P.B. was the architect of the resort's La Cana course. The new Roco Ki Resort debuts later this year, with a spectacular Nick Faldo course.
WHERE WE WENT IN 2006
VIETNAM AND CAMBODIA -- In December we went on a two week trip to Vietnam and Cambodia. Other than the nearly 24 hours of flying time it was a fantastic trip. Our first few nights were spent at the Caravelle Hotel (with its famous Saigon Bar where American journalists watched the war going on in the distance) in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). It is like the NY of Vietnam. While there played golf at the Vietnam Golf Course in 106 degree weather - almost perished!
We were most amazed by all the moped/cycles that nearly everyone drives. Sure, there are a few car and trucks, but in Vietnam the main mode of transportation is the ubiquitous cycle. We saw many with entire families of four on them (and a native says she has seen many with five people on them!). One person said the cycle is their SUV. They are cheap and economical. Few wear helmets and most wear the masks over their faces - to keep out the pollution and/or to keep off the sun. Many women cover up completely with long gloves on their arms to boot. The traffic is seemingly without any rules or regulations. You walk to cross without stopping and the traffic just steers around you. Don't stop or you're dead! They just dodge each other and go in all directions, including diagonal with lots of gradual merging. Really scarey - we've never seen anything like it.
The female school children in the country wear the pant outfits with the long tunic over the top. Different colors for age groups and regions. Very elegant for the girls. We visited all the museums of note, but were particularly shocked and saddened at the museum portraying the Vietnam war and our part in it. Since more than 60 percent of the people are under thirty most don't remember the war. Went to the main market where literally everything edible and not is for sale. Sounds, sights, smells overpowering!
CAMBODIA -- Leaving Saigon we went to Siem Reap in Cambodia. Stayed in the Raffles Hotel where Bill Clinton had preceeded us by a few days. Hired a guide and driver for a day and a half and saw four of the major temples in Angkor, including Angkor Wat, the most famous. Our guide was Clinton's a few earlier, too, so guess he was the best. The entire area is 77 square miles; about 74 temples have been "discovered" and the most famous is the square mile Angkor Wat. The temples are awe-inspiring. The intricacy of the carvings is indescribable. Truly a man-made "wonder of the world" on a par with Machu Picchu in Peru. We also visited the "great lake" outside town and saw all the floating villages (complete with church, school, store, etc., in addition to the "houses"). Most traffic cycles, bicycles, and tourist transportation of four person carts propelled by small motorcycles. Fantastic experience! Toured the Phokeethra golf course outside town and were very impressed. It would be top-notch anywhere by anyone's standards. We REALLY wish we could have played it!! The interesting thing about golf in the two countries is how the golfers often stop to eat between nines. The people there very friendly.
Flew from Cambodia to Hanoi where we stayed one night at the Hanoi Hilton, next to the Opera House. Left the next day for a three hour drive to Ha Long Bay and an overnight trip on the old style paddle boat, the Emeraude. Entire region dotted with humps of islands of all sizes. None inhabited. Stopped by one island and explored a dry cave which was really big. Lot of tourist boats and people selling things out of their woven boats. Most were from the floating villages found on the Bay. A really fun trip.
Returning from there we stopped to play golf at a monster course called Chi Linh Star. Beautiful and very challenging. Had two really sweet female caddies who giggled with us all around the course. Wish we had had more time to play it again. But had to go to airport and fly into Hue. Spent two nights in La Residence. Rained a lot but we got a good guide who showed us two temples/tombs of two of the past kings of Cambodia. Also went to the imperial city, part of which is still in ruins from the war. So much royal tradition there. Took a short ride on the Perfume River in "dragon boats" to see famous pagoda nearby. Our guide took us to lunch where we sat on kindergarten sized plastic chairs in a local hangout open to the street. Still don't know what we ate, but we survived.
The next morning we took a local train for a three hour trip to Danang. Went through the first real jungle we saw; alongside a steep mountain with the sea way down below us. It only cost about $6 U.S. and we even got a hot meal of rice, etc. Had to buy a seat for the golf bag because of shortage of space.
Drove from Danang past Marble Mountain where they get the material for the magnificent statuary we saw at the shop we stopped at en route. Oh to have a HUGE garden to put the stuff in. Then on to Hoi An and the Life Resort. There we chilled out and got several massages and took a tour of the small town in cyclos (carts with one person seats propelled by a bicycle behind). We loved the town. We saw Quan Cong temple(Chinese Mandarin hero), visited typical home, 400 year old Japanese covered bridge, local musical show, etc. Crafts everywhere, in particular hand made silk clothing of the finest quality.
After returning to Saigon for one night we were driven for three hours to the Novotel Phan Thiet which in on a beautiful beach. The Ocean Dunes golf course was challenging with lots of water. Again, you need to play it early because of the heat. Too short a stay and off the next morning for a three hour drive to Dalat, which is about 4500 feet up in the mountains and very cool. Stayed in a palatial suite at the Dalat Palace, one of the oldest buildings in the city. Like a Swiss city with mts. and lake. Famous Dalat Golf Course; only one in the country entirely bentgrass (great condition). Had good female caddy here.
Flew back for one more night of HCMC and cycle madness. It was a very, very good trip.
Chile -- The SATW Convention was held in Santiago, Chile, in October. We spent five days there attending meetings, seeing the city, and in Donnelle's case, hiking in the snow-covered mountains of El Dorado National Park a few hours outside the city. Santiago is a major metropolis resting between mountains by the sea and the Andes. We really enjoyed our visit and our hosts outdid themselves to entertain and inform us.
The really exciting part of our trip was the two post trips in Patagonia. First we flew into Punta Arenas and were then driven to Puerto Natales for an overnight before going to an eco camp where we stayed four days and three nights. The camp was in the Torres del Paine National Park. We slept in domed tents (6 feet tall and 12 feet in diameter) that were secured to wooden walkways to protect the environment. The bathroom tent and dining tent were all designed to be quite serviceable to the guests. We ate very well! We took bus trips into the countryside each day, and on one occasion part of the group spent all day hiking to the three peaks that marked the landscape behind us. We saw lots of indigenous animals such as the guanacos (camel/llama type creatures) and plenty sheep and goats. The snow covered mountains were gorgeous, as were the many lakes that reflected them. Everywhere we looked was like a picture postcard (and indeed, most of the major views were!). We all got tons of good photos and lots of spectacular scenery to talk about.
The second post trip was by boat, the Mare Australis, from Punta Arenas to the tip of Cape Horn (only 300 miles from Antartica) via the Strait of Magellan. We went to the Marinelli Glacier in Ainsworth Bay and the Beagle Channel to Pia Bay to visit the glacier by that name. It was huge and most impressive. We saw sea lions, nesting birds, penguins and other wildlife during several stops on small islands. Then we went through Glacier Alley to see glaciers named Spain, Romanche, Germany, Italy, France and Holland. Then it was on to Cape Horn National Park. We had snow, sleet, rain and sun during our brief time on top of the bluff there. Then we went to Ushuaia, Argentina, the southernmost city in the world. It is right up against the sea with tall Andes mountains right behind it. We returned from there to Santiago and the next day flew home. Patagonia is every bit as wild and beautiful as we had heard. It reminded us a lot of the south island of New Zealand.
Manchester, England and Wales -- This trip to England was to scout out opportunities for pre and post trips for the SATW Convention scheduled for next fall. It is a great place to visit and we'll have lots of good opportunities for stories and photography. We followed this with a week in North Wales where we played golf, explored castles, and drove through beautiful mountains. We had a wonderful guide who tried in vain to get us to pronounce the language correctly, but the double l's drove us crazy. Oh well, we look forward to returning next year. The green hills spotted with hundreds of sheep (and some Kashmir goats) are gorgeous and the people wherever we went were were most friendly and hospitable. It is one of our favorite places to visit.
New Zealand and Australia -- Wow, what a trip! We were gone for three weeks: one week on the north island of New Zealand, then one week in Australia, followed by one week on the south island of New Zealand. We were lucky enough the first two weeks to visit some of the best vineyards the countries had to offer and to play the absolute best golf courses they have (several ranked quite high internationally). The last week was mainly for sight-seeing and adventure trips.
On the north island we visited Auckland and the nearby Waiheke Island. Leaving there we played the Gulf Harbour golf course, Auckland's best. From there it was a beautiful drive to the Bay of Islands and a stay at the incomparable Kauri Cliffs. The lodging was spectacular and the golf course one of the most beautiful we have seen, with fifteen holes viewing the Pacific Ocean (six of them alongside cliffs that plunge into the sea). What a treat! After way too little time there we drove to the Carrington Lodge, which is a delightful place with golf course, vineyard, Black Angus stud farm, etc. We needed more time there for sure. Then on to Rotorua with its geysers, boiling mud pools, crystal lakes, and wonderful Maori culture. We really enjoyed the Hangi (earth oven meal), and an evening viewing the Tamaki Maori Village and show. Then in Taupo we played Wairakei International Golf Course, one the country's best, a gem of an inland course ranked by Golf Digest as the 17th best golf course outside the USA. That night we stayed at the ultra exclusive and most charming Treetops Lodge located in 2500 acres of secluded native forest and game preserve with trout streams, lakes hiking, etc. We needed more time there, too. From Rotorua it was on to Napier and the Hawke's Bay wine country. It was from here that we played one of the most extraordinary golf courses we have seen - Cape Kidnappers. Some of the greens back up to the edge of cliffs 500 meters below. Dizzying!
After leaving Napier it was time for a flight back to Auckland and then a trip to Adelaide, Australia. There we got to play golf at Royal Adelaide, one of the top three ranked courses in the country. Great sense of history there. After that we got to visit some of the best vineyards in the Barossa Valley, including Peter Lehmann and Jacob Creek. Unfortunately our time there did not allow us a visit to the city of Adelaide, which was beautiful from a distance.
We left Adelaide bound for Sydney on the Australia's famous Indian Pacific railroad. It was a wonderful 24 hours with great meals, service, and individual accommodations. How do they fit so many amenities into such a relatively small area?! Upon arriving in Sydney we checked into the Four Seasons Hotel with spectacular views of the harbor from our upper floor rooms. We had time to sightsee (we did the Torongo Zoo again, a real treat) and relax. The next day we played one of our favorite courses in the world, the New South Wales Golf Club - rated one of the top 50 golf courses internationally. After that it was a short hop to Melbourne where we had another terrific view of the city from our room in the Langham Hotel. The next day we played Royal Melbourne, an Alistair Mackenzie design, ranked #9 in the world internationally. Another sense of history! The day after this we did a Mornington Peninsula epicurean wine tour, followed by a night time visit to Phillip Island to see the fairy penguins come in from the sea and waddle to their burrows in the sandy hillside. It was one of our most favorite critter experiences.
After leaving Melbourne we flew to Christchurch on the south island of New Zealand. There we rested, did sightseeing, played the Clearwater Golf Course (much like Florida courses), and saw our first Kiwi at the visitor center. Great little creatures. After renting a car we left on our own for Mt. Cook, the highest mountain in NZ. On the way we drove around Terrace Downs golf course at the foot of snow covered mountains, including Mt. Hutt, which has the longest ski season in the country. We tried to get up to the very top of the ski resort, but ice and light snow and the narrowest road without guardrails we have ever seen made us turn back. That was an adventure! The rest of the trip to Mt. Cook was beautiful with the mountains and lakes ever present. The hotel at Mt. Cook was right at the base of the mountain and naturally offered a stunning view. The day after arriving we did some hiking in Hooker Valley and then on to Queenstown through equally impressive scenery, including the Remarkables range. This is where bungy jumping, and a wide variety of other extreme sports originated. We got great photos of people bungy jumping, and paragliding from mountain peaks. We also did the Shotover River trip in the "airboats" and played golf at Millbrook Golf Course. The highlight of our visit there was the trip to Milford Sound. We went down by bus, took the boat tour through the Sound, and got to fly back over the snow-covered mountains to Queenstown. We really wished we had had time to do some lengthy hiking as there are some of the best walks around in that area. The weather was perfect the entire time and we got lots of great pictures.
Sadly our time in NZ ended after the three days in Queenstown. It was a fitting place to end what was surely one of the best trips we have ever taken. The land "down under" and the home of Aslan the lion, the hobbits and Gandalf, is one of the most memorable and remarkable indeed.
Orlando, Florida -- This spring we went to Orlando to play golf and visit several resorts. It was a great trip but hectic as we played seven courses in seven days. Among the resorts we stayed at were The Gaylord Palms with its fabulous enclosed atrium, the posh Reunion Resort and Club with its three superior golf courses, and the Peabody with its signature ducks. Our golf experiences included Falcon Fire Golf Club, a combination golf round at Reunion's Watson and Palmer courses (they were playing an LPGA event on the other nines), Hawk's Landing Golf Club, the International course at Champions Gate, Grande Lakes Orlando, the new Shingle Creek Golf Club, and the New Course at Grand Cypress Resort (Nicklaus' homage to St. Andrews Old Course). We managed to squeeze in quick visits to Disney World and Universal Studios, but obviously needed much more time than we had. In an earlier visit over a year ago we also played a few of the Disney golf courses, which are also a cut above and a delight to play. Seems like we need to go back again soon!
Bovey Castle, Dartmoor, England -- In March we visited another Peter de Savary property, a renovated turn-of-the-century country estate in the middle of the Dartmoor National Park. The house was the backdrop for the 1930s movie "Hound of the Baskervilles," and when the rain and mist creep down from the moors, it's really a moody setting. Some of the activities are unusual -- archery, pistol shooting, falconry, honey gathering, making sloe gin, off-roading in Range Rovers -- and there are the traditional ones, such as hiking or biking in the moors, horseback riding, fly fishing, the spa (great indoor pool) and, of course, golf. The Donald Steel course is tough and tight. It's a new stop on the European Tour this year, and the pros will face many tricky encounters with the trout/salmon stream meandering through the layout. It's a great place for pub-hopping, and we had many a good pint and order of fish and chips or lamb shank with the locals.
Abaco, Bahamas -- We started the year with a January visit to the private Abaco Club at Winding Bay on Great Abaco. The club is extraordinary, as one would expect of a place with building lots starting at $1.5 million and cabanas renting for $1,000 a night for one-time visitors who are potential members. The Donald Steel-designed golf course is a priceless experience. There is nothing in the Caribbean like this windswept, links-style track. If the breeze weren't so warm and the ocean so blue, you'd swear you were in Scotland. Being in the Abacos gave us a chance to visit several of the islands, which are quite beautiful and unspoiled--a miracle, since they lie so close to Florida. soon to be "discovered," no doubt. We also visited the rare wild horses with their longtime advocate, Mimi Rehor.
WHERE WE WENT IN 2005
Arizona -- We returned to Scottsdale in November, again for Travel Classics, and to play some of the major courses we missed last year for a feature in Executive Traveler.
Canouan Island, Grenadines -- We spent a few days on Canouan playing golf at the new Raffles Resort. It's in a wonderful mountainous setting and has one of the top golf courses in the Caribbean. Donald Trump is developing property there. The spa treatment by the sea was one of the best we've had. We believe the resort is destined for greatness; certainly the golf course is one of the most visually stunning we've seen with its dramatic elevation changes and 360-degree view of the surrounding islands from the 13th tee.
Puerto Rico -- After Canouan, we visited the new Paradisus Puerto Rico. It is a cut above many all inclusives and will no doubt become more popular as the word gets out. We played golf next door at the new Coco Beach Golf Club. There are four nines, and certainly the new mountain course will emerge as everyone's favorite. Willowbend Golf Design's Bruce Besse and Tom Kite collaborated on the design.
Lexington, KY -- The Horse Capital of the World, Lexington's Kentucky Horse Park hosts the 4-star Rolex-Kentucky Three-Day Event every year and will be the venue for the 2010 World Equestrian Games. It's the only park in the world dedicated to the horse and horse sports.
Greece -- We spent one week on land and one week sailing among the islands. A fantastic experience. On the land portion we most enjoyed the museums and ruins of Athens and Delphi, and Kalambaka/Meteora, where ancient monasteries perch atop 100-foot rock spires. Among the islands, we particularly liked Santorini, with its volcanic past and Delos, where we wlaked among the ruins of 4,000 years of history. See Donnelle's extraordinary images on www.DonnelleOxley.com.
Ireland & Wales -- Dale went to Ireland to play the K Club and Druid's Glen on assignment and reconnoiter for a more extensive trip in 2006. Donnelle returned to Wales to participate in a women's pro-am at the new Nicklaus-designed Machynys Golf Course and to play adn photograph several other courses.
WHERE
WE WENT IN 2004
California
-- We went the
Rome and Switzerland We had a wonderful time in
Then it was on to
France - We went with Rick Baril,
designer with Robert Von Hagge, to play two of their
best courses in France: Les Bordes (ranked #1 in
France and #2 in Continental Europe) and Royal Mougins. We also got to play the two new courses at
Four Seasons Provence. The weather cooperated and we got some good
images of the courses and resorts. Even
had a little time to do some sight-seeing. All in all it was a great trip.
Arizona
The Travel Classics Writers conference in
WHERE
WE WENT IN 2003
JULY 2003 -- Summer,
when it finally comes, is great here in the
WHALES -- In March 2003 we had our most
extraordinary experience in the realm of nature (as compared to man-made
wonders, of which
GOLF -- In May 2003 we spent two weeks in
AUGUST 2003 We spent
eight days rafting the entire
FALL 2003 We attended the Society of
American Travel Writers Convention in
ALASKA - Juneau (biking, zip-lining, city, Mendenhall Glacier). American Safari Cruise ship, trip through inside passage to Glacier Bay: whales, seals, sea lions, eagles, scenics.
Cambodia - Siem Reap, Ankor Wat
Viet Nam - Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Hue, Ha Long Bay, Danang, Hoi An, Phan Thiet, Dalat
Adelaide - golf, wine country
Caymans
golf and diving
Dominican
Republic -- Casa de Campo
(golf, fishing, sailing, sporting clays, horseback riding, polo); Punta Cana Resort for golf;
Guavaberry Resort for golf; Dye Fore Golf
Course; and swimming with humpback whales 100 miles (10 hours) offshore (aboard
the Turks & Caicos Aggressor).
Exuma Four Seasons Resort and
the
Turks
& Caicos
CHILE -- Santiago, Patagonia (Torres del Paine), Glacier Alley to Cape Horn
Greece - Athens, Delphi, Kalambaka/Meteora, Poros, Santorini, Naxos, Mykonos, Delos
Scotland -
golf,
Scotch tasting and distilleries, St. Andrews, Carnoustie,
Turnberry Resort, Gleneagles Resort (golf, horseback
riding, carriage driving, sporting clays, falconry, dining), Loch Lomond (golf), St. Andrews Bay Resort , Kingsbarns Golf
NEW ZEALAND -- the North Island (Auckland, Rotorua, Napier) and the South Island (Christchurch, Mt. Cook, Queenstown)
Peru
We visited
Peru in March 2002, including the fabulous Inca ruins at Machu
Picchu; the floating islands of the Uros on Lake Titicacca, the
worlds highest navigable lake; and the towns of Cuzco,
Lima, Puno and Yucay. Our
explorations included other important Inca and pre-Inca ruins, cathedrals, adventure (rafting)
and shopping for wonderful hand-crafted items.
UNITED STATES (areas I'm most familiar with)
Kentucky - Rolex Three-Day Eventing shots for 2005, 2006